The Complete Exterior Home Inspection Checklist for Pennsylvania Homeowners (Roof, Chimney & Gutters)

Pennsylvania’s climate creates a predictable cycle of exterior damage. The freeze-thaw season from late October through March stresses every system simultaneously: mortar cracks, shingles lift, gutters pull from fascia, and caulk around flashing fails. Most of this damage builds slowly, invisibly — until it doesn’t.

A twice-yearly exterior inspection gives you an accurate read on each system before it becomes an emergency. The checklists below are organized by system. You don’t need to climb anything. Every item here is observable from the ground with reasonable access, binoculars for upper roof surfaces, and a flashlight for attic verification.

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How to Use This Checklist

Timing: Run this inspection in early spring (April) after the last freeze, and again in early fall (September) before the first hard freeze. The spring pass catches freeze-thaw damage. The fall pass ensures systems are prepared for winter.

Equipment needed: Smartphone for photos, binoculars for upper roof surfaces, flashlight for attic and soffit areas.

Action threshold: Any item marked (Critical) requires a contractor assessment within 30 days of identification. All other fails should be addressed before the next seasonal weather event.

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Part 1: Roof Inspection Checklist

1.1 Shingle Condition

Inspect from the ground using binoculars. Check each roof slope independently.

• Granule loss — Bare or discolored patches on shingles, or granule accumulation in gutters (Critical if widespread)
• Curling or cupping — Shingle edges turning up at the corners or down along the edge seam
• Cracked shingles — Visible fractures across the shingle face from thermal movement
• Missing shingles — Any gap exposing the underlayment or deck (Critical)
• Lifted shingles — Shingles raised from the deck in the field of the roof, not just at edges
• Moss or algae growth — Dark streaking (algae) or thick green growth (moss) on north-facing or shaded slopes
• Hail damage — Random, circular dents with granule displacement; look for a bruising pattern across multiple slopes after any storm with significant hail

1.2 Flashings

Flashings are the metal components sealing transitions — chimney base, skylights, valleys, dormer walls, and pipe penetrations. They fail more frequently than shingles and cause more interior water damage per incident.

• Chimney base flashing — Visible separation, rust streaking, or caulk pulling away from the masonry (Critical)
• Skylight flashing — Staining or separation at the perimeter on any slope
• Step flashing at dormer walls — Rust staining or visible gaps where siding meets the roof plane
• Valley condition — Valley metal should be straight and sealed at both edges; any puckering or exposed laps indicate seal failure
• Pipe boot flashings — The rubber collar around plumbing stacks cracks with UV exposure; look for cracking or a collar that is missing entirely (Critical)

1.3 Roof Deck and Structural

• Sagging or uneven planes — View each roof slope from a corner angle; any depression or dip indicates deck deterioration or rafter failure (Critical)
• Ridge condition — Ridge cap shingles should be aligned and nailed; displaced or missing ridge caps expose the peak directly to precipitation (Critical)
• Eave condition — Rotting or visibly soft fascia material at the roofline edge

1.4 Attic Verification (Interior)

Go into the attic during daylight with lights off.

• Light penetration — Any pinpoints of daylight through the deck indicate an active penetration (Critical)
• Staining on rafters or sheathing — Dark water marks indicate past or active leaks
• Insulation condition — Wet, matted, or discolored insulation sections indicate ongoing water infiltration (Critical)
• Soffit vent blockage — Insulation pushed against soffit vents reduces ventilation and contributes directly to ice dam formation
• Ridge vent condition — Unobstructed and free of debris accumulation

Threshold: Three or more shingle condition fails on a roof older than 15 years indicates the system is approaching end-of-life. Schedule a professional roofing inspection before the next winter — not reactive repair after the first leak.

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Part 2: Chimney Inspection Checklist

2.1 Crown and Cap

• Chimney cap present — A missing cap is an open entry point for water, birds, and debris (Critical)
• Cap condition — Rust, holes, or structural failure in the cap mesh or body
• Crown condition — Visible cracking on the concrete slab at the chimney top; any crack wider than 1/16” (Critical if structural separation)
• Crown overhang — Does the crown extend at least 2” beyond the masonry face? A flat crown with no overhang drains water onto the brick rather than away from it

2.2 Masonry Exterior

• Mortar joint condition — Are joints solid and flush, or recessed more than ¼ inch from the brick face?
• Efflorescence — White crystalline deposits running down the chimney face indicate active water movement through the masonry (Critical if recurring)
• Spalling brick — Brick faces breaking or flaking off; freeze-thaw water has reached the brick itself (Critical)
• Chimney alignment — Any deviation from plumb when sighting up the chimney from the base (Critical — structural)
• Mortar at roof intersection — The mortar collar where the chimney exits the roof should be continuous and adhered

2.3 Flashing at Chimney Base

• Step flashing condition — Metal should lie flat against both the chimney face and roof surface with no visible separation
• Counter flashing — The counter flashing embedded in the mortar joint should not be pulling away or show sections that are missing
• Sealant-only flashing — Any caulk-only flashing installation (common in older repairs) that has pulled away (Critical — proper flashing is not caulk-dependent)

2.4 Firebox and Interior (From Inside the Home)

• Firebox back wall — Visible cracks in the refractory panels or masonry
• Damper operation — Does the damper open and close fully? A stuck damper can indicate crown-level debris or a warped frame
• Draft test — Light a match in the firebox. Smoke should pull upward cleanly. Spillage into the room indicates a draft problem requiring professional evaluation
• Odor when not in use — A persistent chimney smell when the fireplace is cold indicates a liner or draft issue, not a cleaning issue

For a professional chimney inspection and repair assessment, schedule before the fall heating season — not after the first smoke event.

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Part 3: Gutter and Drainage Inspection Checklist

3.1 Gutter Condition

• Debris blockage — Gutters should be clear of leaves, granules, and organic material; blockage causes overflow and fascia rot
• Sagging sections — Any section holding standing water or visibly sagging between hangers is not draining correctly
• Separation at joints — Check end caps and section seams for leakage (staining on the fascia below a joint is the tell)
• Rust or holes — Visible rust-through or holes in steel gutters require patching or section replacement
• Pulling from fascia — Any gap between the gutter back and the fascia board indicates hanger failure

3.2 Downspouts and Drainage

• Discharge location — Water should discharge at least 4 feet from the foundation; direct discharge against the foundation causes basement water infiltration over time
• Underground connection condition — Standing water at the downspout base after rain indicates a blocked underground connection
• Splash blocks or extensions — Where there is no underground connection, a splash block or flexible extension should direct water away from the building
• Downspout attachment — All brackets secured to siding; a loose downspout in a wind event can tear away siding or pull the gutter

3.3 Soffit and Fascia

• Fascia board condition — Probe the fascia at gutter attachment points with a flat-head screwdriver. Soft or spongy wood indicates rot from chronic gutter overflow (Critical)
• Soffit panels — Any sagging, warped, or stained soffit sections indicate moisture infiltration from above
• Soffit vent screens — Intact and not blocked with debris or paint

For a professional gutter inspection and cleaning assessment, schedule in late October before the freeze season begins.

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Part 4: Exterior Wall and Window Transitions

These items sit at the intersection of roofing, siding, and masonry systems. Failures here consistently appear as interior staining before the exterior cause is identified.

• Window head flashing — A metal cap should cover the top of each window frame. Missing head flashing leads to water infiltration above the window interior — it’s one of the most under-inspected failure points on older PA homes
• Caulk at window and door perimeters — Cracked, missing, or pulling sealant between the window frame and siding requires replacement before the fall rain season
• Siding at roof transitions — Where siding meets a lower roof surface (above a garage, bay window, or addition), check for gaps, rot, or missing step flashing
• Basement window wells — Should drain freely; accumulated debris holds moisture against the foundation

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Fall vs. Spring: What Each Inspection Prioritizes

System	Spring Focus	Fall Focus
Roof	Ice dam damage, lifted shingles, granule loss	Missing shingles, flashing condition before rain season
Chimney	Mortar condition after freeze-thaw	Cap and crown condition, liner before heating season
Gutters	Debris from winter, hanger damage	Clear of leaves, downspout routing before freeze
Siding / Windows	Paint/caulk failure, freeze expansion cracks	Seal all penetrations before sustained cold

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When to Call a Contractor

A ground-level inspection tells you a great deal but cannot confirm liner condition, quantify shingle adhesion failure, or assess hidden deck rot. Call a contractor when:

• Any (Critical) item is confirmed during this inspection
• A roof is over 15 years old and has not had a professional inspection in the last three years
• A chimney has not had a Level I inspection in the last 12 months and the fireplace is in active use
• You are purchasing a home — schedule a Level II chimney inspection and a dedicated roofing assessment independently from the general home inspector

General home inspectors are not licensed roofing or chimney specialists. Their report is a starting point — not a final condition assessment for these systems.